Italy’s reputation for desirable fashion is immeasurable and incontrovertible. Italian fashion invented the world glamour and with its bold infamous brands remains untouchable. Italian fashion is sexy , dramatic and above all – fun! (That’s just mentioning Versace,
Ferretti and Cavalli). It comes as no surprise that I was more than eager to attend the most anticipated exhibition of the year. The Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014 shown exclusively at the Victoria and Albert Museum in Kensington, London provides 69 years of outfits chronicling key moments of influence from the first fashion shows, a focus on Italian family fashion and a showcase of new talent. The curator, Sonnet Stanfill’s aim was to focus on ‘the idea of Italian craftsmanship and this wonderful mix of prominent traditions’.
As I was escorted in the direction of the exhibition, initially I felt I had been unleashed into a world of abundance and luxury. The first room was a post war establishment of the Sala Bianca; a fashion show and brand headed by Giovan Battisti Giorgini. I was dazzled by a long series of opulent crinoline evening dresses – a girl sure can fantasize. I was soon envisioning myself walking the Roman streets with my own Gregory Peck. I suddenly completely understood why the Italians turned to fashion to provide an antidote to deprivation after WWII. It was not until I proceeded however that I understood that Italians buy clothes as an investment and when worn they don’t sell the clothes but a lifestyle. Unlike the models of the 90s , it was the ‘bella figura’ which dominated the 50s and 60s throughout the boot shaped country.
They say Italians have their own style of doing things, it’s no surprise then that beauty in Italy is more than a word, it’s more a powerful weapon. Like the Grecian goddesses, the Italian body is worshiped and the curve is appreciated. It was in fact Sofia Loren after all who quipped that her body (the most lust after in the 50s) was down to pasta. Italian clothes are crafted , it is specialist regional techniques that are the key characteristics of Italian womenswear and menswear according to Stanfill. Throughout the 60s Italian tailoring had a domino effect and soon hit Britain- the mod culture was rewriting the style rules and the taste for slick tailoring saw the demand for Italian suits rocket and soon enough Moschino and Versace were dubbed as the epitome of luxury and saw Armani redefine the word ‘gentleman’. As much as the history of the dressmaker though changed my view on Italian fashion and their unique approach to trends, it was the grand finale – the sfilata (parade) of Italian fashion from recent collections which whisked me away and had me falling in love with the crystal encrusted Dolce and Gabbana ankle boots.
Italians do have their own way, as much as I believed I would be launched into an exhibition of overpriced and overrated garments I couldn’t have left more dumbfounded. I love my fashion catwalks and trendsetting magazines but after all, it is glamour which is consistent and remains universal. There was a magical spirit in the air that day, Italians really do do it better.
If that hasn’t convinced you then seeing for yourself the heavy jewelled emerald Bulgari necklace bought by Richard Burton for the Elizabeth Taylor in 1958 sure will.